A dado rail is a wooden moulded rail that runs around a room at waist height. They are often painted the same colour as the skirting board and architrave. A dado rail can be used to split the wall in two sections, allowing for two colours to be used or for you to use wallpaper and a colour on the same wall. Dado rails can be used to fool the eye into thinking the room is larger, by using a strong colour at the bottom and a lighter one above, which makes the room appear to open out.
When fitting a dado rail, you need to consider the appropriate height. If you are replacing an old rail, you should refit at the same height.
If you are adding a dado rail to the room for the very first time, you should fit it at around 1 to 1.2 metres high from the floor. If you have very tall ceilings, place the rail higher. If you are using wallpaper in your room with a large repeating pattern, you could use this to help you decide where the rail should go.
Making a measuring mark
Once you have decided what height the rail needs to be placed at, mark in each corner where you want the rail to sit.
Use a long, straight edge and a spirit level; mark the walls all the way around in pencil.
You can also use a laser level in the centre of the room, using the corner marks to gauge the correct height. If you don’t have a laser level device, many reputable tool hire shops will be able to lend you one.
When attaching a dado rail on the stairs, measure the appropriate height at the top and bottom step and at a right angle to the stair, mark in chalk where the rail needs to sit all along the stair set.
Cutting the dado rail timber moulding
Buy an excess of dado rail, 10% more than you actually need to account for cuts. Start with the longest piece. If the wall is longer than your longest piece, use a mitre joint to put them together and make sure that the dado rail is fixed to the wall nearby.
Use mitre joins for the corners. Make sure that you use the correct join, external and internal mitres.
Attaching the dado rail
Use screws to attach the dado rail to the wall if it is a masonry wall. Depending on how you intend to finish the dado rail, you can use dowel to hide the screw or filler.
Fit the rail 30cm from each corner. Attach the dado rail to the wall every metre or so. Mark where you will attach the rail on the rail and the wall before removing the rail to drill fixing holes.
Start with the longest, straightest wall and then work your way around.
At Dresser Mouldings we strive for differentiation, offering cutting edge technology and top quality production systems.
Back in Spring 2014, we engaged with Schuberts, one of the UK’s leading manufacturers and suppliers of turnkey finishing systems, in a modernisation project for their spray finishing requirements.
After discussions and exhaustive live tests, an order was placed for a new Schubert-Makor profile finishing line.
The new finishing line is special in many ways; It allows hand feeding of product up to 300mm wide and 4200mm long. The spray machine is fitted with 2 separate spray circuits which allows a quick colour change. The line is able to deal with MDF, softwood, hardwood and exterior timber cladding products. In accordance with our environmental policy, the new automatic coatings line is designed to run exclusively with waterbased paint and clear lacquer top coats.
Specially fitted with anthropomorphic arms, the Makor IRIDE 306 spray machine is able to coat all 4 sides in one pass and with special outfeed roller conveyors, means no marking on the underside of the products.
The IRIDE 306 also comes with a special Teflon-coated pull-out internal trolley system on wheels to allow easy access to key parts and easy cleaning of overspray tubs and gun systems.
The sanding machine is fitted with 4 x Flex-Trim brush sanding heads where quality is paramount. There are many cheaper copies of Flex-Trim on the market but where quality matters most, there is no substitute. The sanding machine will not only pre-sand but also de-nibb after the first coat has been cured in the hot air oven system.
A temperature resistant Kevlar mesh infeed conveyor, before the spray machine, allows pre-heating modules to be incorporated, aiding rapid drying and promoting adhesion of certain waterbased coatings.
Special bi-conical outfeed rollers after the spray machine allow the processing of 4-sided wet product (where necessary) without marking on the underside. Finally a cross-transfer conveyor and hot air drying oven complete the system.
The line is more than capable of running up to 60m/min, but normally will run at 40m/min to give the best quality finish and to give the operators time to check the quality of each piece produced.
Mark Schubert says that “Dresser Mouldings have been a pleasure to work with from start to finish. They had a clear objective with the new spray facility and saw a clear gap in the market for high quality contract finishing across the UK. They were fantastic onsite and helped our engineering team install the new finishing facility within a working week. I am convinced that Dresser will find many new customers and be able to offer the UK timber market with an unrivalled level of service and quality for sprayed wooden products.”
Bill Gunn of Dresser Mouldings says “”Having exhausted the market looking for the right coating/spray applicator, the name of Schuberts kept coming to the top of our list. Having spent 3 full days at the Makor factory in Italy carrying out a range of live tests, we came away knowing we had found the right machinery and working partners in Schuberts. Since the installation, we have been delighted by the professional and hands-on approach given by Schubert engineers and staff. Dresser Mouldings were already a market leader in external water based coatings, however we lacked the ability to compete on internal water based lacquered coatings. Having now purchased the Makor IRIDE 306 spray-line, it has transformed the company’s ability to offer both internal & external water based stains and lacquers”.
Dresser Mouldings is one of the largest bespoke timber moulding manufacturing plants in the UK with over 50000 square foot with a vast range of specialist machinery with an highly skilled work force. Dresser have continued to invest in the latest technology having recently invested in a new spray finishing line. The company have followed this up by purchasing its second Leadermac Hypermac 623H 8000RPM machine capable of giving the company the class finish needed to support its recent investment in an automatic spray finishing line.
Dresser continues to strive and offer both off the shelve & specialist bespoke products. The new machinery offers cutting edge technology with top quality production systems allowing the company to continue manufacturing & supplying a large range of timber mouldings including Architraves, cornices, timber skirting, balustrades, as well as timber columns.
Fitting skirting boards is a way of re-energising a room that needs an update, or an essential part of a second fix in a DIY project. Fitting a timber skirting board is not a difficult task for the experienced DIYer, and is even straightforward enough for those new to DIY, saving you approximately £150 in fitter’s fees per day.
Skirting board comes in a variety of designs and shapes. The timber mouldings can have a rounded edge or more elaborate profiles, including torus, bullnose, ogee, large ovolo, small ovolo and lambs tongue.
If you are putting in a new tiled or wooden floor, attach the wooden mouldings at the end of the project for a superior finish. If you are laying carpet in the finished room, fit the skirting board beforehand, as this will help the carpet fitters to work with a clean, straight edge.
What You Will Need
- Skirting board
- Mitre saw/ Mitre box
- Coping saw
- Tape measure
- Silicone gun
- Wood filler
- Instant grab adhesive
How to Fit the Skirting Board
Measure the area that you are fitting the skirting boards. Make sure that you add 10% to the total just in case.
Check your skirting board for the correct profile. Some companies produce timber mouldings with a different profile on each side. If this is the case, check which side you will be using and mark this on each board to ensure that you don’t make a mistake later on.
To begin, pick a section of wall with an external corner (if possible). Place the skirting board against the wall and mark on the ground where it will sit.
Repeat this with the adjacent wall. There will be a cross marked on the floor. Measure to this point to determine what length you will need.
Check the wall for studs if you are adding skirting onto a stud wall. Mark the position of these on the floor so that you:- A – don’t try and force a nail into them if they are metal or B – have the best position to nail into if the studs are wooden.
Measure and cut your skirting using a mitre saw or box. Make sure that your 45° cut is at the correct angle for that section of wall!
Check that the lengths you have cut are correct. You can now drill pilot holes for the screws so that sit below the surface of the wood. Repeat for the adjoining wall.
Glue, drill and screw the skirting into place. If the angles are off, plane to the correct angle.
For internal corners, cut the wood to length, and the create corners with your mitre saw. Plane to get a perfect fit. A coping saw can be used on the profile for an internal corner.
Continue around the room. Fill holes with wood filler. Paint for a stunning finish.
An architrave is a timber moulding that sits around a door frame window or around a loft hatch. It is a decorative wooden trim which hides any shrinkage in the surrounding walls and ceilings, or warped edges. When fitting a timber architrave around a door, you will need three lengths of architrave, with one horizontal piece to sit over the top of the doorframe, and two vertical legs or jambs for the sides. The corners are usually mitred at 45 degrees to allow the pieces to sit together without a gap.
What You Will Need
- Oval nails and pins
- Wood glue
- Mitre saw
- Scrap wood
- Nail punch
Checks to carry out
Ensure that your timber mouldings are straight and flat. If you are replacing existing mouldings, the new architrave should be as wide as the previous ones. If they are not, you will have to redecorate the wall to ensure that the wall is fully covered. If they are narrow or wider than the previous moulding, you will have to consider replacing the skirting board as well.
When removing an old architrave, you may need to run a knife around the edge to break the seal that can form due to paint layers. You can use a chisel to prise off the old architrave, protecting the wall from damage using a scrap piece of wood.
Position the new architrave flat against the door frame, with the bottom edge resting on the floor. Using a pencil, mark the position of the inside mitre joint.
Cut the angled edge using a mitre saw. Ensure that you are sawing the right way before you start!
Line up the timber moulding with the paint line and using a hammer, attach the architrave using nail. Use the nail punch to get the nail head below the surface of the wood. Do the same on both sides.
Take the short length of wooden moulding for the horizontal piece. Turn it upside down, hold against the top of the door and mark the external edge for mitring.
Using wood glue, attach the top piece into the two vertical jambs. Use two nails to fix the piece to the door frame. Try to not get adhesive on the wooden surface. If you do, quickly use a damp cloth to remove it.
You can use caulk if required to fill gaps between the architrave and the wall. Once you have applied it, use a wet finger to smooth the mastic to a smooth finish.
For a professional finish, use pins to hold the mitred join together to prevent them coming apart over time.
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